The stretch from Bruneck to Ehrenburg and Kiens is not just enjoyable thanks to the beautiful trails through the wide and sunny Puster Valley. For pilgrims, which is what we are, there is the Church of St. James in St. Sigmund, and also a pilgrims’ hospital – there could not be a clearer indication of the pilgrims’ route.

First though we must take a look at the Gothic Church of St. Nicholas in Stegen, immediately after Bruneck, where the Stations of the Cross, dating back to about 1470, are worth seeing because the frescoes of the 14 stations go around the charnel house (ossuary) as well as the church. Continuing along the woodland path we reach Sonnenburg and the previously mentioned Hospital of St. John im Spital, founded in the 12th century by the Benedictine nuns from the Sonnenburg convent, for the use of travellers, as well as pilgrims to Rome and Santiago de Compostela, on the ancient Roman road used more and more by these pilgrims.

The Roman milestone, now re-sited on the main road so that it can be better seen, used to stand on this old road which ran right past the hospital. Unfortunately the hospital chapel is almost always closed, so we will miss viewing the larger-than-life-sized 12th century Crucifi x and the fresco by Simon von Taisten, which depicts a violinist kneeling at the feet of the crucifi ed St. Uncumber.

The beautiful tracks continue across the sunny side of the valley fl oor and out towards the end of it and not until Ehrenburg and Kiens do we reach the banks of the Rienz. It is worth going to see the “Ehrenburger Kornmutter” or Corn Mother, (a painting from the mid 15th century) in the crypt chapel of Ehrenburg’s parish church, a muchloved place for pilgrims. For centuries the farmers of the Puster Valley came to this apparent ancient Christian place of worship to pray for a good harvest – hence the “Corn Mother”.

Anyone not wanting to wait until they reach St. Sigmund to see St. James just has to look around the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul (parts of which date back to the 15th century) in Kiens where they will fi nd him in a side altar depicted as “Matamoros” (Moor-slayer).

Hiking trail 2 on the banks of the Rienz takes us to the Gisser Hotel and then we curve north to the Parish church of St. Sigmund, whose second patron saint – no doubt as a result of the growing popularity of the pilgrimage to Santiago – is St. James. As well as various paintings of the apostle, the church is known above all for housing the oldest complete Gothic altar-piece in the Tyrol, which has not been moved since it was fi rst made (c. 1430).

After St. Sigmund we cross over to the south bank of the river for the fi rst time since leaving Bruneck and reach the Puster Valley cycle track to Niedervintl. (After a short distance we can if we want cross a bridge to pick up a hiking trail on the north bank leading to Obervintl. Niedervintl can then be reached along hiking trail 2 A.) The original 15th century late Gothic parish church of Obervintl is dedicated to St. Nicholas and was renovated in Baroque style in 1749. The fresco depicting St. Christopher on the outer wall also dates back to the 15th century. The little village of Niedervintl has two churches, the old parish church from the 14th century and, inspired by Brixen Cathedral, the Baroque Parish Church of the Annunciation of Mary consecrated in 1763.

Time:
Bruneck > Kiens: 2 ½ hrs.
Kiens > Niedervintl: 2 ¼ hrs.

Distance:
25.2 km

Height difference:
Ascent: 535 m
Descent: 610 m